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Showing posts with label Travelogue. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Travelogue. Show all posts

Saturday, 6 October 2012

Sorrento Summer

Sorrento port and coastline










Last summer I visited the Italian capital, Rome. In August this year I returned to Italy this time to the popular tourist resort of Sorrento. I knew very little of Sorrento before my visit but to be completely honest I wasn’t expecting it to compare to the energy and excitement of Rome. I found while in some ways it met my expectations in others it far exceeded them. 


The Fauno Bar in Sorrento's main square, The Piazza Tasso




Statue of St. Anthony, Patron Saint of Sorrento









Sorrento is a small, picturesque little town covering less than three square miles. It combines classic Italian architecture and narrow cobbled streets with chic boutiques and modern apartment blocks. Although it’s right on the coast, there are no real beaches to speak of, just a very rugged coastline and a handful of man-made lidos and sun terraces. It’s surrounded on three sides by lush green hills dotted with olive groves and vineyards.  


Sorrento Gorge
A typical street



International flags welcoming visitors

Melon & Lemon flavoured slush










The pace of life is much more sedate than in the capital; like in Spain people take a siesta in the afternoons so most of the shops and museums close from around 1 to 5 o’ clock in the evening. Coming from a city where you can shop every day from 9 in the morning until 8 or 9 at night this caught me off guard at first but I soon adjusted to the more relaxed way of life. I spent a lot of time simply meandering, exploring the town, discovering local shops and hidden treasures, enjoying leisurely lunches and then returning to the hotel in the afternoon to catch up on some reading by the rooftop pool. 

The town really comes alive at night, there is a vibrant cafĂ© culture with countless restaurants, bars and gelaterias serving up a delicious array of Italian dishes, drinks and the most amazing desserts. After dark the streets are abuzz with artists, musicians and some of the most creative and imaginative street entertainers I’ve ever seen. 

View from the hotel's rooftop pool
The gardens








 



Sorrento is so easy to navigate on foot, guided tours (at least the two I tried) tend to be either very brief or repetitive. A three-hour open top bus tour I went on on the second day went into such tedious levels of detail about olive harvesting methods every time we passed a grove that I found myself tuning out  twenty minutes in and just enjoying the scenery. Luckily Sorrento is just a short coach journey from Naples and the historic city of Pompeii so I spent a day exploring the ruins and joined a guided tour of the ancient streets, the bakeries and the famous Villa dei Misteri (or Villa of the Mysteries). Pompeii is so vast I was only able to see a tiny part of it, I’d like to return one day to see the bath houses and the small amphitheatre in the far south eastern corner of the city. 


An ancient bakery in Pompeii

Columns surrounding the Forum
A Pompeiian street
Intricately carved stonework




While I was in Sorrento I also took the opportunity to visit the nearby island of Capri. I made the mistake of choosing a small (though very pretty) open top boat for the journey that completed a circle of the entire island, bobbing and swaying constantly in the currents as it went. If I were to do it again I would opt for either the ferry or the hydrofoil which cost just over 13 euros for a return ticket. Capri itself is a favourite destination for the well-heeled and stylish, designer boutiques line the streets and porters driving golf buggies tote expensive monogrammed luggage from the harbour to the island’s exclusive hotels. I found the main square and shopping streets a little claustrophobic, but I did enjoy exploring the tiny winding paths that snake their way around the island’s homes and eventually lead to the highest point of Capri with its spectacular panoramic views.


The rugged coastline of Capri

A pebble beach
One of the pathways that lead around the island
View over Capri
Cherry blossom










Overall I would say if you’re looking for a relaxing break in luxurious surroundings then you can’t go far wrong with Sorrento. It’s perfect if you enjoy shopping, eating out and soaking up the local culture. Sorry this post is so long overdue, hope you enjoyed reading about my summer adventures anyway.     




Tuesday, 13 September 2011

When in Rome…

St. Peter's Basilica
Rome is a beautiful, vibrant city where the sacred meets the secular and the ancient rubs shoulders with the classical and the modern. It’s an eclectic mix that gives the city a unique buzz all of its own. Occupying just a few square kilometres central Rome is compact and easily navigable on foot or via the city’s public transport network. Hop on one of the intercity buses and buy your ticket from the coin operated machine on board, a single journey costs a euro or for 4 you can buy unlimited travel for an entire day. The buses run every few minutes but are usually hugely overcrowded with standing room only, I found the newly modernised (not to mention air conditioned) metro system much quieter and easier to use. There are stations all over the city and all of the major tourist attractions have a metro stop nearby. 

Rome's Metro network
Because there is so much to see in Rome –I once heard it referred to as ‘the world’s largest open air museum’- it’s essential to plan carefully if you want to see everything. The big attractions can get incredibly busy so you can save time as well as money by buying multi-tickets in advance. The Roma Pass for example gives you free admission to two museums or archaeological sites of your choice plus reduced priced tickets to any of the others in the city. It lasts for three days and comes in at 25, it also entitles you to use the public transport network free of charge for each of the three days. Best of all –and worth the price on its own in my opinion- you don’t have to wait in line at any of the attractions. 

For many people the ruins of the Coloseum, the Vatican, the great works of art speak for themselves, however I really recommend paying a little extra and hiring a good English-speaking guide to give you the background information necessary to understand and situate Rome’s great monuments in context.

A Roman street
As well as sightseeing, Rome is renowned for its shopping. At the heart of the shopping district there are several streets of high-end luxury and designer stores –all of which were showcasing their autumn collections, I cannot describe how weird it is to be looking at fur coats in the middle of August when the temperature is in excess of 35 degrees! If you find designer boutiques a little intimidating Rome boasts a wealth of more middle-of-the-road chain stores that have either virtually disappeared from Britain’s high streets or else aren’t well established in the UK yet like Benetton, Sisley and my personal fave, shoe heaven Aldo. There’s also the ever popular Zara and H&M along with some Italian chains like Stefanel and Le Group. The fashion may be very grown-up and serious but the Italians do have a taste for the kitsch and the retro, the city is crammed with amazing quirky boutiques selling unusual homewares –think Alessi but on a grander scale.

After the hustle and bustle of central Rome, visiting one of Rome’s parks is the perfect way to relax. I went to the Villa Borghese Gardens, Rome’s second largest park encompassing 148 acres of winding footpaths, statues, fountains, a lake and several museums. If you’re feeling adventurous it also has a zoo and places to hire roller blades, segways and bikes. 

A fountain in the Villa Borghese Gardens
Having failed to persuade my traveling companion to hire a Vespa in Rome, she did eventually relent and agree to rent bikes to explore the park. Prices start from around 5 per hour for basic bike hire increasing to 12 for an entire day. You usually need to leave photo ID as a deposit, I didn’t have any with me, fortunately I managed to convince the man running the rentals to accept a credit card instead but if you don’t feel like risking your passport or your bank account(!), I recommend carrying some form of photo ID with you, even if it’s just a library card.

Gelato

After a day in Rome you’re sure to work up an appetite and luckily the food is delicious. As well as the traditional pizza and pasta dishes you would expect, there are lots of meat and seafood options. There are so many restaurants, cafes and bistros in central Rome you’re spoiled for choice, although prices are expensive and portions are usually quite small.  This holds true even if you buy food from street vendors, where a soft drink will set you back €3 or €4 and a slice of pizza around 5. I found the best way to eat well on a budget was to have a light lunch, perhaps half of a shared pizza or a panini, and to eat dinner early as many restaurants introduce more expensive dinner menus at evening. Rome is famous for its gelato, a delicious Italian ice-cream, and true to form there are gelaterias on virtually every corner. Prices usually start from €2 or €3 for a single scoop going up to €10 or more for a really lavish multi-flavour sundae. You pay more to sit and eat in gelaterias so you can save by enjoying your gelato standing up! Nearly as delicious as gelato are the flavoured crushed ice drinks. I particularly liked the lemon, which was so refreshing after a hard day sight-seeing.

We stayed at the well-appointed Hotel Capannelle, which is approximately three kilometres from central Rome. Although this meant a 25-30min bus journey into the city each day, thanks to the out-of-town location the hotel is a lot more spacious than its city centre equivalents and even boasts its own pool –a rare luxury for a Rome hotel. Ultimately wherever you stay Rome is an amazing city unlike any other, and one you definitely cannot afford to miss. 

Keep scrolling for more photos...

The Hotel Capannelle
Reception
Hotel Room
The Trevi Fountain
The Roman Forum

The Vatican Museum
One of the ornate ceilings in the Vatican Museum
View over the city
Bernini's 'Sinking Ship' Fountain
Jelly Babies in the Park
The Colosseum
The Colosseum
The Spanish Steps
A street performer
Fountain of the Naiads
Lemon Slush

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